Combining Scents
Combining scents is accomplished by using the oils scent characteristic. Essential oils are classified by their notes or scent characteristics. They are classified as either top note, middle note or base note.
 
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Top Notes Normally evaporate very fast
Have anti-viral properties
Tend to be light, fresh and uplifting in nature
Are usually inexpensive
Highly volatile
Fast acting
Give the first impression of the blend
Are not very long lasting
Middle Notes The bulk of essential oils are considered this classification
Normally give body to the blend
Have a balancing effect
The aroma is not always immediately evident it may take a couple of minutes to establish their scent
Are normally warm and soft fragrances
Base Notes Are normally very heavy
Their fragrance is very solid
It will be present for a long time
Slows down the evaporation of the other oils
Fragrances are normally intense and heady
Normally rich and relaxing in nature
Typically the most expensive of all the oils
Oils can have more than one note because they have a complex chemical composition. Examples include - jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, osmanthus, tuberose, champaca flowers, and neroli.
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A good fragrance blend should harmoniously balance all three of these scent characteristics. Oil notes are subjective. You may disagree with someone else on the classification of an oil. Other classifications that can be used in making a blend are enhancers, equalizers, modifiers and fixatives.
Blend Enhancers Bergamot
Cedarwood
Champaca flowers
Clary sage
Geranium
Jasmine
Lavender
Lemon
Lime
Myrrh
Neroli
Osmanthus
Palmarosa
Rose
Sandalwood
Spruce
Ylang Ylang
Blend Equalizers Champaca leaves
Fir
Marjoram
Orange
Petitgrain
Pine
Rosewood
Tangerine
Blend Modifiers Blue chamomile
Clove
Cinnamom
Cistus
Patchouli
Peppermint
Thyme
Blend Fixatives Cistus
Myrrh
Patchouli
Spikenard
Vetiver
Top Notes - Middle Notes - Base Notes and Fixatives
| Top Notes | Middle Notes | Base Notes and Fixatives | Angelica Root (to middle)
Basil
Bergamot
Bergamot Mint
Bitter Orange
West Indies Bay (to middle)
Cajeput
Cinnamon (to middle)
Citronella
Clove
Eucalyptus
Grapefruit
Lemon
Lemon Eucalyptus
Limon
Lime
Lemongrass
Mandarin (to middle)
May Chang
Neroli (to middle)
Peppermint
Petitgrain
Sweet Orange
Thuja
Thyme | Allspice (to top)
Anise Seed
Bay Laurel
Black Pepper (to top)
Carrot Seed
Catnip
Chamomile
Cardamom
Coriander
Caraway (to top)
Champaca Leaves
Cilantro
Clary Sage
Clove
Coriander Seed
Cornmint
Davana
Dill Seed
Douglas Fir
Elimi
Fennel
Geranium
Ginger
Hyssop
Absolute Jasmine
Juniper Berry
Lavender
Lemon Balm
Lovage Leaf
Manuka
Sweet Marjoram
Myrtle (to base)
Niaouli
Nutmeg
Oregano
Palmarosa
Parsley Seed
Pennyroyal
Petitgrain
Ravensara
Absolute Rose
Bulgarian Rose
Rosemary
Rosewood
Palmarosa
Pine
Common Sage
Winter Savory
Spearmint
Spike Lavender
St.John's Wort
Sweet Marjoram
Tagetes
Tangerine
Tarragon
Thyme
Absolute Tuberose (to base
White Camphor
Wild Marjoram
Blue Yarrow
Green Yarrow | Amyris
Balsam Peru
Benzoin
Cistus (fixative)
Clary sage
Cedarwood Atlas
Virginia Cedarwood
Celery Seed
Cistus
Copaiba Balsam
Cypress
Elemi
Frankincense
Galbanum
Helichrysum
Myrrh (fixative)
Oakmoss Resin
Peru Balsam
Patchouli (fixative)
Rosewood
Sandalwood
Spikenard (fixative)
Tumeric Resin
Valerian
Vanilla
Vetiver
Ylang Ylang |
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Combining scents is accomplished by using blend equalizers, modifiers, enhancers, and fixatives.....
Equalizers
What is a blend equalizer?
They are oils that help to eliminate sharp edges. They help your blend of oils to flow in harmony, to fill in gaps, and manage the intensity of the most active oils in your blend. Most blend equalizers work better with certain types of blends: in other words in the context of the blend.
Citruses such as orange or tangerine work best with -
Other citruses bergamot, neroli, or petitgrain
Spices cinnamon, clove or nutmeg
Floral geranium, jasmine, rose, or ylang ylang
Fir and pine work well with
Coniferae
Myrtaceae
Universal equalizers include
Champaca flowers
Rosewood
Wild Spanish marjoram
Modifiers
What is a blend modifiers?
They are the oils with the most intense fragrance. They are responsible for the sharp edges, or deep foundation or heart of your blend. They give your blend its personality. However, because they are so intense they contribute to a small percent of your blend often in as little as one percent. So adding more may ruin it. If your blend is dull and unexciting you could try adding a drop more of the modifier. It may take it over the top though and destroy it. Use these oils sparingly. Never more than 2 or 3 percent.
Enhancers
What is a blend enhancer?
They are oils which have a pleasing fragrance by themselves. You can give your blend a personal touch by using an enhancer. Use them in rational amounts or they will become overpowering. The total amount of enhancers in your blend may be up to fifty percent of the blend, but each individual enhancer should be around fifteen percent.
Oils that could be considered an enhancer and work well for inhalation blends in diffusers, steam room and sauna include
Cajeput
Eucalyptus
Niaouli
Rosemary
Fixatives
What is a fixative?
They are oils that draw the blend into the skin and give the blend roots and permanence. They are needed for a long-lasting effect. They are intense, deep and emotional. The first contact with a fixative oil may be unpleasant, as with civet, musk, or patchouli, or odd as with cistus or vetiver. However, every respectable perfume needs them. They should account for about five percent of your blend to avoid having them overpower.
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